Many of the young new gen designers chose to show a bright colour palette, with clashing colours and vibrant citrus yellow shining through. My personal favourite was the harlequin patterned dresses and playsuits shown on the Spijkers en Spijkers catwalk. Muted tones and giant stars, styled with headscarves and minimal jewellery mean that the clothes can do the talking.
Florals were blooming in Erdem, Christopher Kane and Peter Pilotto’s collections and even the King of the sequin, Ashish joined in with a floor length floral number, with real pansies attached to the Doc Marten boots. This is not the romantic, washed out version, but incorporating bold colours, cigarette pants and slimline jackets, which can be styled up with plains for the less adventurous.
Pyjamas also seem to be making a welcome return on the men’s and women’s catwalks; If you are a fan of comfort dressing, you will probably love the easy to wear Richard Nicoll and Paul Smith collections; Both male and female Topshop/Man fans will be pleased to see that the Unique and menswear range offers a silky version, perfect for strolling down the promenade in Cannes!
If it’s a more structured look you’re after, look no further than the shiny pvc detailing lead by minimalist giants Acne, who sent their models out in baggy metallic skirts and leather tops. Aquascutum had the best black pvc trousers, and Antonio Beradi used pvc in his detailing of his space age collection. Mulberry jumped on two trends by ticking the pvc box with a fabulous yellow jacket, and Burberry Prorsum, Julien McDonald and Jaeger London also picked up the yellow theme. A theme which I have no doubt will be seen at many a wedding come February 12!
White is going to be massive next spring/summer. Different shades of white were mixed up in various fabrics, lengths and layers at Christopher Kane and Antonio Berardi. Another colour you won’t be able to escape next year is vibrant orange spearheaded by Matthew Williamson. Buy orange now and you can guarantee 12 months of on-trend dressing!
Sixties shapes are still a strong contender- these featured on dresses, coats, and blouses at Roksanda Ilincic, with a swingy shape accentuating long legs and is a trend that leads nicely on from AW.
The most talked about show amongst my fashionista friends was the Mulberry show, which transported us to the world according to Mulberry! If next summer is one long fun fair ride, I will be happy to be head to toe in Mulberry. I love the fact the whole British summertime expectations were covered with cutesy rainmacs, pleated maxi dresses, and lace trimmed dresses, all in ice cream hues. This truly was as spectacular show and the models and their backcombed hair worked the playfulness of the collection.
In contrast, another of my favourites was the Jean Pierre Braganza show, which embraced the Warrior Woman, with the models owning the catwalk and stopping halfway down to “strike a pose”. With an unusual summer colour palette of black, grey and red, we can expect the JPB fan to be full of drama. Leather and fringing were used, and the menswear collection was equally as fierce. With digital printing and laser cut fringing, this will definitely suit someone who takes no prisoners!
Giles Deacon chose to show at the Royal Courts of Justice, and the setting begged to be filled with extravagance and illicit excitement, which his collection demonstrated. Beautiful ball gowns finished with ruffles and feathers, ready to take on the red carpet, were sashayed down the catwalk. The more ready to wear pieces showed swan printed shift dresses, trousers and blouses, allowing him to be Prince of the statement looks!
Another name to watch for high glam party wear is Ashley Isham who already dresses many celebs including Kylie! This season he showed a combination of full length decorative evening gowns and a more youthful mini dress selection. Styled to the hilt with the bird’s nest hair and floral headpieces, this is something that probably won’t translate in to the world outside fashion week!
Back to the Vauxhall Fashion Scout, and the Eudon Choi show provided some great key pieces that you truly can wear with everything. There were no fancy gimmicks- you get what you see with this Korean designer as his collection was predominantly clean lines, interesting cuts using butter soft leather. with an equestrian edge. He chose to make a masculine collection and his jodhpur inspirations in camels, browns and greys got the thumbs up for wearability from all the Editors around me. Even though there was not much flesh on display, each piece was extremely sexy and so, so easy to wear.
In conclusion, London fashion is as diverse as ever. You will be able to find something to suit all tastes, however flamboyant or safe you want to play it! I would say bring on the sunshine, but it is already here…now we just have to wait six months to get hold of the clothes!
By Sara Darling
