David Koma A/W 2012 LFW

Sports Lux and evening wear have joined together for David Koma's A/W 2012 collection. With mental loop details, cut out bodies and glitter, David's new collection is original, dynamic and above all, feminine. With a slight 80's feel with kick frills, clashing colours and mesh sleeves, Mr Koma really has moved on from this perplex fun collection from S/S 2012 and I love it.
 

Author - Lois Waller
Images - Lois Waller

55Pages is a fan of men and menswear... here's what they will be wearing for AW12

Menswear day was its usual jumble of hipsters, smarties, b-boys and backstreet boys- in fact, there is something in AW for every species of the male!

Several designers out-did themselves by controversial styling/hairstyling (anyone going for the all over face-over?) but the majority of the collections were wearable, well made and easy on the eye; And if you know what you like, you will definitely be able to find it! And if experimentation is more your thang, I can point you in the direction for that too…

Here’s a round up of my fave collections…
Lou Dalton called his collection “This Charming Man” which was a retrospective of the romance of the war era. It could be loosely described as military but with a modern quilted twist. Structured, easy on the eye and low key, this is a safe bet for a boy who loves fashion.

James Long also opted for an aviator feel, but he concentrated on knitwear and collars. It looks like men will be wearing fur this winter, starting with the small details of the collar, and the defined waists are making fashion even more metrosexual. Coupled with PVC trousers in claret and plum, this will definitely be a grower when the nights start drawing in.

If you like old school, you should keep an eye out for Oliver Spencer, as he mashed a collection of varsity jackets with the traditional double breasted jacket. Extremely wearable and already with a big fan base of east-enders, Oliver could soon be expanding his empire if you ask me!

With one eye on the future, Martine Rose has nailed the bomber jacket to a T. Re-interpreted for AW12/13, the colour scheme is orange and olive. Coupled with skinny pants and the occasional neon flash, this collection is full of urban streetwear.

Another favourite would have to be Topman Design; Experimental yet wearable, there is always the safe option and the fly by the seat of your pants ‘I’m off out to a hot event tonight and need to buy some thing that doesn’t look high street’ version. With David Gandy and Alex Zane sitting frow, the boys came out beaming, as well as most of the girls! Black PVC, exposed zips, studded belts and danger showcased first followed by a more subdued and classy 1920s and thirties line in suiting. Altogether very hot!


JW Anderson took a risk to call the show Good taste Bad Taste, and as usual it did not disappoint; As a flashback to the 70s, there were optical prints, roll neck jumpers, too short flares and quilted jackets. Difficult to wear all at once, with the loud primary colours but the JW Anderson man will definitely be able to find comfort in the noise, and find a piece or two to complement the kilt combo.



And if that wasn’t enough excitement for the journos, the Agi and Sam collection was Bold with a capital B! The models, with extra rosy cheeks, beads, and white gloves, allowed the focus to be drawn to the outlandish even clownish partnerships. With matching suits, contrasting shirts, and lots of colours, everything was made from recycled plastic, so the homeless look indeed just exaggerated the quality and swagger of the product.



The Saville Row tailor E Tautz stayed close to its roots; Presenting a thoroughly British collection for the next generation, Patrick Grant has led the way in ready to wear for those who like the idea of made to measure. Classic basics were added to the flashes of red, which kept this collection traditionally quintessentially English.


And last but not least, McQ chose to end with a story. He too used military silhouettes with heavy overcoats and bomber jackets, but Sarah Burton kept it clean with classy leather gloves, shirts and ties.

So if you are a leather lover, a bit of a rock god or enjoy the geek chic look, you can definitely find an item or two to re-vamp your winter wardrobe. I know what my dream man will be wearing…

By Sara Darling

Simone Rocha A/W 2012

Simone Rocha has followed in the foot steps of her father and created another full and bubbly collection of textures and simple colours. With lace, plastic, wool, organza and leather, all natural and man-made materials have been mixed and jumbled together to create Simone's new A/W vision. With similar tastes and styles to her Dad, Simone has put her own spin on her collection by giving her pieces more of a commercial and trendy twist rather then following her father's roots which can be more classic and timeless.
Among all of the pieces, my favourites have to be the perspex coloured brogues, simply amazing!!

Author + images - Lois Waller

Emilio De La Morena A/W 2012

Nuns, leather inserts and knitwear was the food for thought from Emilio De La Morena’s collection for A/W 2012. With a lady-like silhouette of knee length skirts and clinched in waists, Emilio has stayed with his vision of an ideal woman and given it some key details such as girlie bows and knitted arm warmers. Even though the designer’s trend influences and key ideas have changed to meet the times, Emilio is very good at staying true to his direction and his humble nature really shows through his beautiful made pieces that really need no introduction.
I also admire the religious looks with the habit head gear, virginal hairstyles and the hits of white in each of the looks.

Author - Lois Waller
Images - Lois Waller

John Rocha A/W 2012

John Rocha's collection is always a treat and this season is no different. With strong shapes such as Maxi's with billowing bottoms, clinched in waists with belts and oversized parachute dresses with flowers, Mr Rocha has surprised us again with a complex and creative combination of black, lace and tailoring. As well as Rocha's trade mark one colour collection, the designer has introduced some blocked shape colour dresses to bring some colour to a already very attractive collection.

Issa London A/W 2012

Wonderful, Electric and beautiful are the words that jump to mind when I first saw Issa London's new collection for A/W 2012. With a signature print, embroidery and fur sleeves, the new pieces are super feminine yet have desirable extras that really give this collection a massive edge. With black velvet leggings, fur bags, 20's style flapper dresses and elbow length gloves, Issa London is bang on trend for A/W 2012 and is perfect for some inspirational ideas too.